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Bartolotta Ristorante Di Mare: Mekah Makanan Laut di Gurun

Bartolotta Ristorante Di Mare: Mekah Makanan Laut di Gurun

Di sepanjang kawasan perbelanjaan di dalam Las Vegas Wynn Casino adalah tempat Anda akan menemukan restoran senama Paul Bartolotta, Bartolotta Ristorante Di Mare. Sebuah kiblat makanan laut di tengah padang pasir, restoran bertingkat modern ini memenuhi hype-nya.

Makan malam di Bartolotta adalah pengalaman yang luar biasa dari awal hingga akhir. Menu yang terinspirasi dari Italia diatur dalam kursus, memungkinkan para tamu untuk mencicipi beberapa item dengan porsi yang tepat dalam satu kali makan, dengan grand finale menjadi ikan pilihan. Varietas dengan nama eksotis seperti orata, scorfano, dan gallinella diterbangkan secara teratur dan disajikan kepada pengunjung dengan kereta dorong besar, dan server berusaha keras untuk menunjukkan setiap ikan dan menjelaskan persiapannya. Dengan pemikiran ini, saya dan suami saya memutuskan untuk berbagi salad gurita, linguini dan kerang, dan branzino bertatahkan garam.

Saya pernah makan salad gurita di masa lalu, tetapi belum pernah mencicipi yang sebagus ini. Dibalut dengan minyak zaitun dan jus lemon, gurita Liguria begitu empuk hingga meleleh di mulutku. Disajikan dengan dua kentang kecil dan beberapa arugula, itu adalah pengantar yang sempurna untuk apa yang akan datang. Kursus pasta berikut adalah linguini dengan kerang, yang juga lezat, dengan pasta yang dimasak dengan konsistensi al dente yang sempurna dan saus yang tepat untuk selera saya.

Hidangan utama, branzino, dibungkus dengan dua pon garam, dan dibumbui dengan adas dan jeruk. Server kami dengan ahli menghilangkan kerak dan mengisi meja ikan saat dia menjelaskan metode memasak rendah dan lambat yang digunakan. Dilapisi dengan beberapa kentang baru dan zucchini tumis, itu adalah porsi yang sempurna untuk dua orang. Umum di Sisilia, metode memasak ini menghasilkan ikan yang lembap dan hampir lembut hanya dengan sedikit garam. Ini adalah cara yang sangat sederhana dan sangat mudah untuk memasak ikan yang lezat.

Menu makanan penutup termasuk beberapa standar Italia: semifreddo, kue lemon Liguria, gelato, dan kue almond cokelat. Kami berbagi kue almond cokelat dan tidak bisa lebih bahagia. Di atasnya dengan gelato kacang vanila buatan sendiri, itu adalah cara yang bagus untuk mengakhiri makan.

Kualitas dan persiapan makanan serta pengetahuan dan layanan yang diberikan oleh staf di Bartolotta luar biasa. Jika Anda berada di Vegas, menyukai makanan laut, dan memiliki beberapa dolar ekstra untuk dibelanjakan, saya sangat merekomendasikan makan malam di Bartolotta.


Menemukan Romantis di Vegas

Lupakan apa yang Nicolas Cage ingin Anda percayai dari mahakaryanya tahun 1992 Bulan madu di Vegas, bahwa Vegas bukanlah tempat untuk cinta. Sebenarnya, Anda harus benar-benar memperhatikan pelajaran dari Nicolas Cage pada tahun 1995&rsquos Meninggalkan Las Vegas, di mana dia mengetahui bahwa Vegas bukanlah tempat untuk cinta. Berdasarkan film itu, bagaimanapun, Vegas tampaknya menjadi tempat untuk melihat Elisabeth Shue telanjang, jadi hal cinta mungkin tidak terlalu penting. Saya baru saja menghabiskan enam hari di Vegas &mdash empat hari terlalu lama&mdash dan sementara Anda dapat&rsquot menemukan cinta di Sin City, Anda akhirnya dapat menemukan beberapa romansa dalam koleksi menakjubkan restoran yang sekarang memenuhi kota.

Paris kotanya romantis, Paris hotel dan kasinonya tidak. Itu karena Paris memiliki sejarah dan pesona selama berabad-abad, sementara Vegas adalah perangkap turis berusia 60 tahun yang dibangun di padang pasir untuk mendorong hedonisme dan mengurangi tabungan hidup seseorang. Ingatlah hal itu, karena romansa di Vegas adalah pengecualian, bukan aturan, dan hal pertama yang perlu Anda pelajari adalah perbedaan antara seorang gadis yang mencari romansa dan seorang gadis yang mencari sesuatu yang lain. Anda tahu gadis cantik yang duduk sendirian di bar video poker? Dia tidak ada di sana untuk romansa. Dia ada di sana bagi Anda untuk membayarnya di penghujung malam. Faktanya, gadis lajang mana pun yang menarik sendirian di Vegas harus dianggap terlarang. Hanya saja lebih aman seperti itu. Tetap berpegang pada turis yang jelas dan Anda akan berada dalam kondisi yang baik.

Apakah Anda pergi ke Vegas sendirian atau bersama pasangan, tantangan sebenarnya adalah menemukan tempat romantis yang langka itu. Karena Vegas sangat mencolok dan mengerikan, tempat-tempat itu hampir selalu merupakan restoran yang terasa seperti tidak berada di Vegas. Anda dapat menghilangkan restoran apa pun yang merupakan bagian dari mal yang terhubung dengan kasino. Tidak ada yang pernah merasakan makan romantis di mal. Apa yang Anda butuhkan adalah sebuah restoran yang terasa benar-benar terisolasi dari seluruh Vegas. Itu meninggalkan kita dengan Mandalay Bay dan The Wynn/Encore.

Mandalay Bay mendapatkan poin untuk Mix dari Chef Alain Ducasse yang diakui secara internasional. Makanan yang luar biasa dan pemandangan terbaik di kota membuat malam yang sangat romantis. Jika Anda ingin merasa seperti penjahat super film Bond yang menghadap domain kriminal Anda dari lantai 64, Mix adalah tempatnya. Wynn dan Encore, bagaimanapun, menawarkan fitur yang dapat disaingi oleh Teluk Mandalay: air terjun. Ada sesuatu tentang air terjun yang bagus yang mengubah makan malam menjadi romantis. Untungnya, The Wynn dipenuhi dengan mereka. Baik Anda menikmati pertunjukan air terjun yang luar biasa di SW Steakhouse atau bersantai dengan teppanyaki di Okada, air terjun di The Wynn menjadi latar belakang yang sangat romantis. Favorit baru saya tidak memiliki air terjun. Tidak, Bartolotta memiliki danau pribadinya sendiri. Terpencil dan intim, &ldquoristorante di mare&rdquo (baca: muatan kapal makanan laut Italia) ini adalah pilihan saya untuk tempat paling romantis di Vegas. Saya makan malam di sana dua minggu yang lalu dengan seorang teman lelaki saya, dan terlepas dari kenyataan bahwa kami berdua punya pacar, kami hampir bercumbu. Ini itu romantis.

Menemukan tempat romantis yang sempurna adalah sebuah tantangan di gurun yang haus kelas seperti Vegas Strip. Jika Anda pintar tentang hal itu, Anda dapat menemukan sendiri sebuah restoran terpencil yang akan membantu Anda melupakan benjamin yang baru saja Anda buang di meja dadu. Jika romansa bukan kesukaan Anda, lanjutkan dan bicaralah dengan anak muda yang seksi itu di bar video poker. Dia tidak peduli jika Anda membawanya ke Margaritaville, selama Anda meninggalkan uang di lemari pada akhir malam.


Piknik All Star Chefs di Lembah Api

Sekelompok koki selebriti dengan pos terdepan di Las Vegas yang putih panas berkumpul untuk piknik 4 Juli yang sejuk di gurun Nevada.

Kebanyakan orang akan memilih tempat yang disebut Lembah Api untuk piknik, tetapi kemudian kebanyakan orang tidak bekerja di dapur profesional yang memanggang. Koki, tampaknya, memiliki hubungan yang berbeda dengan panas daripada kita semua terutama koki dengan restoran di Las Vegas yang putih panas. "Kami bahkan bermain sepak bola menyentuh tepat di bebatuan," kata chef Paul Bartolotta, dari Bartolotta Ristorante di Mare di Wynn Las Vegas. "Itu cukup gila."

Untuk piknik Empat Juli di padang pasir ini, Bartolotta dan teman-temannya termasuk Todd English of Olives Las Vegas, Bradley Ogden dari Bradley Ogden di Las Vegas dan Wynn Las Vegas bersama wakil presiden eksekutif restoran, Elizabeth Blau' pergi ke negara bagian Valley of Fire taman, satu jam di luar Vegas, untuk liburan mini. Para piknik membagikan beberapa hidangan mereka sendiri, ditambah beberapa dari koki bintang yang setidaknya bisa&posting hadir kali ini. Bartolotta&aposs kaya tuna Italia, kacang putih dan salad arugula membawa Mediterania ke padang pasir. English datang dengan piknik klasik, salad kentang, dimeriahkan dengan tiga jenis mustard. Dan Craftsteak&aposs Tom Colicchio menambahkan peperoncini (acar paprika) ke salad buncis lemonnya untuk gigitan yang tajam.

Setelah salad disiapkan, kelompok itu mulai membuka bungkus sandwich. Bacon berasap dan keju biru yang remuk membuat Ogden&aposs crispy chicken subs tak tertahankan. Emeril Lagasse dari Emeril&aposs New Orleans Fish House Las Vegas menyediakan muffulettas yang menggugah selera, diisi dengan salami, mortadella, keju provolone, dan salad zaitun. Untuk hidangan penutup, koki pastry Sherry Yard dari Wolfgang Puck&aposs Spago (yang memiliki pos terdepan di Las Vegas) menyumbangkan kue tar nektarin yang renyah, bermentega, seukuran gigitan�rapa banyak, tidak ada yang tahu. Mereka dilahap begitu cepat sehingga tidak ada kesempatan untuk menghitungnya.


Restoran Fine Dining Vegas “Top Chef”

The Houston Chronicle baru-baru ini membuat artikel tentang Koki Terbaik, mengenali Chefs dan restoran fine dining Vegas. Berikut adalah daftarnya.

Alex yang mewah dari Chef Alessandro Stratta menyajikan apa yang dia sebut sebagai santapan French Riviera. Kami menyebutnya luar biasa. Segala sesuatu tentang perusahaan — interior mewah, layanan ahli, makanan lezat — ada di puncak permainannya. Bertempat di Wynn Las Vegas, rumah bagi kekayaan kuliner yang memalukan, Alex menawarkan hidangan seperti John Dory dengan kentang fondant, trout laut dengan sotong hangus, perut babi renyah dengan kacang polong dan ham Serrano, iga pendek Wagyu Amerika yang direbus dengan selai bawang dan panggang squab dengan foie gras bakar. Jika Anda ingin bangkrut, Anda mungkin juga berbelanja secara royal pada menu mencicipi $295, termasuk anggur. Lagi pula, Anda hanya hidup sekali.

(Kredit Foto/Buletin Bintang: kreasi Chef Alessandro)

Bartolotta Ristorante di Mare

Ada alasannya Paul Bartolotta memenangkan koki terbaik di Barat Daya di James Beard Awards tahun ini. Restorannya di Wynn Las Vegas telah digambarkan oleh para kritikus makanan sebagai salah satu pengalaman makanan laut yang paling menakjubkan di dunia. Banyak yang telah ditulis tentang cara restoran dengan makhluk laut diterbangkan setiap hari. Tapi ukuran sebenarnya adalah selera Anda sendiri: Pilih branzino utuh (bass laut), orata (ikan air tawar) atau aragosta panggang (lobster berduri). Dari kerang kecil dalam saus tomat bawang putih hingga risotto seafood hingga turbot, Bartolotta tampil mengesankan. Dan terkesan dia melakukannya. Harganya mungkin mengejutkan Poseidon, tetapi Anda harus melakukan perjalanan jauh untuk menemukan pengalaman hidangan laut Italia yang lebih baik.

BLT Burger

Restoran kelas atas mungkin menderita dalam ekonomi ini, yang membuat burger (terutama yang enak) menjadi pilihan makan malam yang logis. Chef Laurent Tourondel, terlihat di Episode 4, tahu dari burger yang enak, dan BLT Burger-nya di Mirage siap menyajikan makanan Amerika klasik, dipasangkan dengan kentang goreng ahli dan milkshake kental. Restoran keren membuat Anda merasa seperti pemain dewasa sambil memanjakan Anda dengan makanan anak-anak seperti stik mozzarella, onion ring, nacho, s’mores, dan puding roti donat Krispy Kreme. Sulit untuk menolak, jadi jangan coba-coba.

Bouchon

Menemukan bistro Thomas Keller yang ramai di Venezia Tower Venezia adalah sedikit tugas. Tetapi hadiah Anda banyak di kafe megah ini dari koki yang French Laundry-nya adalah salah satu pengalaman bersantap paling dicari di dunia. Bouchon menyajikan hidangan bistro Prancis yang ahli, termasuk salad keju kambing, bebek confit, kaki domba panggang, croque madame, brandade, steak frites, dan profiteroles. Masakan rumahan dalam suasana santai yang menawarkan sarapan, makan siang, dan makan malam. Roti itu surgawi. Jangan lewatkan rillettes salmon (dan alasan untuk mengonsumsi lebih banyak roti). Bar mentah siap menyajikan tiram dan segelas Sancerre dingin untuk Anda. Di tengah gurun, Anda merasa berada di Paris.

Craftsteak

Kepala juri restoran steak mewah Tom Colicchio di MGM Grand mungkin yang terbaik Koki Top restoran. Mata laser yang sama yang Colicchio latih pada kontestan terfokus pada menu daging panggang dan panggang dari atas tumpukan daging sapi. Tapi seperti yang kita lihat di episode Musim 6’s dengan Natalie Portman, Craftsteak lebih dari sekadar kuil sapi, tetapi juga menyajikan makanan laut yang sempurna dan sayuran yang paling murni. Jika Anda mendambakan Vegas yang memesona, Anda tidak akan menemukannya di ruang makan yang agak serius ini. Tetapi Anda akan menemukan layanan ahli dan makanan yang luar biasa.


Untuk Koki Las Vegas, Peluangnya Tumbuh Lebih Lama

Robert Martinez, seorang pelayan berusia 33 tahun di Rao's di Caesars Palace, mengatakan kelas berat ini "memiliki segepok uang kertas $100 dan memberikannya kepada semua orang di staf, dan memberi tip dengan murah hati pada cek $12.000 hingga $15.000."

Tapi sekarang, kata Kevin Carter, pelayan berusia 49 tahun di Craftsteak di MGM Grand Hotel and Casino, “paus telah bermigrasi.”

Tahun lalu, seperempat dari restoran berpenghasilan tertinggi di negara itu ada di Las Vegas. Tetapi pesta itu telah berubah menjadi kelaparan. Lebih sedikit orang yang bersuka ria datang, dan mereka membelanjakan lebih sedikit. Dengan ekonomi yang terguncang, lebih dari 5.000 pekerja makanan dan restoran menganggur di sini.

“Kami melihat keluar dan kami melihat setiap jet datang dan pergi,” kata Michael N. Baker, 50, seorang pelayan selama delapan tahun di restoran Top of the World di menara Stratosphere Casino Hotel. “Dulu ditumpuk sepanjang hari,” tambahnya. “Lalu tidak ada apa-apa di luar sana. Itu menakutkan."

Banyak dari 2.900 restoran di kota ini dilanda kelelahan yang luar biasa.

“Itu adalah emas, dan tiba-tiba menjadi emas bodoh,” kata Malcolm M. Knapp, yang mengepalai perusahaan konsultan restoran yang menyandang namanya.

Bill Lerner, prinsipal Union Gaming, sebuah perusahaan riset, mengatakan bahwa "terlalu banyak restoran, pertunjukan, spa bintang lima — terlalu banyak koki selebriti."

On the Strip, dekat Circus Circus, adalah kekosongan yang menganga dari proyek Eselon seluas $ 4,8 miliar, 87 acre, dihentikan Agustus lalu bersama dengan 12 hingga 15 restoran baru, termasuk koki seperti David Chang dari Momofuku Ko di Manhattan.

Pemandangan biru cermin yang belum selesai dari menara Fontainebleau senilai $ 2,9 miliar senilai 3.815 kamar di seberang Circus Circus membayangi kota seperti ramalan. Itu bangkrut dan mengambil 6.000 pekerjaan dengannya.

Tapi di alam semesta restoran gurun, sebuah fatamorgana kini telah muncul yang bisa berarti keselamatan atau malapetaka: proyek CityCenter senilai $8,5 miliar.

Penuh dengan derek konstruksi dan berkilauan di bawah sinar matahari 100 derajat, kasino CityCenter, hotel, pusat konvensi, mal, perumahan dan kota hiburan tampak seperti parodi Red Grooms seluas 67 hektar di Las Vegas Strip. Pembangunannya membentang seperempat mil, dari Bellagio hingga Monte Carlo Resort and Casino, dan dijadwalkan dibuka pada bulan Desember.

Sekitar 30 restoran akan menghuni tujuh bangunan yang campur aduk — dari menara yang meruncing hingga pecahan kristal — dirancang oleh delapan arsitek selebriti, termasuk Sir Norman Foster dan Daniel Libeskind. Dipajang, dan diadili, akan menjadi konsep koki yang diagungkan, di antaranya Pierre Gagnaire, Michael Mina, Masayoshi Takayama, Wolfgang Puck, dan Jean-Georges Vongerichten.

Bagi sebagian orang, CityCenter, yang dikembangkan oleh MGM Mirage dan Dubai World, akan menawarkan harta yang melampaui buzz dan hype: 4.000 pekerjaan makanan dan restoran, sepertiga dari 12.000 pekerjaan baru di kompleks itu.

Tetapi jika itu mencopot restoran yang ada, hal itu dapat semakin merusak perhentian penyiraman kereta api yang dulu mengantuk ini diliputi oleh pasir yang luas.

Sudah kota dosa telah menjadi kotak pasir insentif, diskon dan promosi, di mana bahkan properti mewah seperti Bellagio menawarkan malam hotel gratis, ditambah perjudian, kupon makanan dan minuman untuk pelanggan kartu klub mereka.

Beberapa turis hemat melarikan diri dari kasino mereka untuk makan di luar Strip. Tetapi restoran-restoran lingkungan berada di bawah tekanan yang semakin besar dari the Strip, karena penduduk dirayu yang belum pernah ada sebelumnya oleh kasino dengan "paket menginap" yang mencakup makanan restoran.

Jadi, di tengah-tengah pedagang asongan dan layanan pengawalan, banyak sekali tanda-tanda makan murah yang bersaing. Mereka termasuk kedatangan raksasa untuk "$5,99 New York Steak N Eggs" di Bill's Gamblin' Hall & Saloon papan iklan raksasa di Tropicana Casino & Resort yang memamerkan "Spesial Lobster Legendaris $19,95," dan kesepakatan akhir, papan iklan Siegel Suites memproklamirkan "Hidup Di Sini Makan Gratis."

Di kelas atas, ada pesta gurun "menu mencicipi musim panas" yang diiklankan di MGM Grand ($60 di Craftsteak, $59 di Shibuya, $45 di SeaBlue, $39 di Nobhill Tavern). Di Aureole dan Mix di Mandalay Bay Resort and Casino, ada menu prix fixe baru. Juga menawarkan penawaran adalah Mario Batali dan David Burke di Venetian, Wolfgang Puck di Spago di Caesars Palace dan promosi “Taste of Wynn” dengan harga lebih murah (termasuk menu $36 di Society Café Encore dan Daniel Boulud Brasserie).

Steve Wynn, ketua Wynn Resorts, mengatakan bahwa pelanggannya “tidak membeli sebotol Margaux itu, dan mereka tidak memesan sebanyak itu — tetapi mereka ada di sini.” Wynn dan Encore miliknya, seperti beberapa properti kelas atas, memiliki hunian 90 persen.

Wynn mengatakan dia didorong bahwa “setiap bulan jendela pemesanan semakin lama — dulu 90 hari, lalu 30 musim gugur yang lalu, sekarang kembali lagi — dan pemesanan juga naik.”

Tahun lalu, "langit runtuh, dan orang-orang ketakutan," kata Elizabeth Blau, seorang konsultan restoran. "Sekarang semuanya sudah stabil."

Tetapi bagi banyak pemilik restoran Las Vegas, flat masih merupakan hal baru, dan bagi sebagian orang, “turun 10 persen, itulah flat baru,” kata Joseph Bastianich, mitra Mario Batali di tiga restoran di Venetian Resort Hotel and Casino.

Bastianich mengatakan Carnevino Italian Steakhouse miliknya di Palazzo at the Venetian memproyeksikan pendapatan $18 juta tahun ini, tetapi sekarang "kami berharap dapat menghasilkan $13 juta hingga $14 juta."

Sirio Maccioni, perintis fine dining Las Vegas dengan restorannya Le Cirque dan Osteria del Circo di Bellagio, memperingatkan bahwa “akan membutuhkan waktu yang sangat lama untuk kembali seperti semula.” Dia mencatat bahwa baru-baru ini pendapatan dari restorannya turun 5 hingga 10 persen, dan tahun lalu turun 25 persen.

Pelayan di properti kelas atas mengalami pengurangan tip dari 20 menjadi 50 persen. “Keanggotaan kami telah menurun 10 atau 11 persen sejak tahun lalu,” kata D. Taylor, sekretaris bendahara Serikat Pekerja Kuliner Lokal 226, yang mewakili 50.000 pekerja makanan dan minuman serta karyawan lainnya di hotel dan kasino.

Martinez dari Rao's mengatakan bahwa staf telah menyetujui pengurangan hari kerja dari 5 hari menjadi 4 hari, dan hari kerja dari 8 jam menjadi 6 jam, hanya untuk menyelamatkan semua pekerjaan mereka. Dia memperkirakan biaya cek rata-rata untuk mejanya turun $30, menjadi $50.

Dan permainan resesi suram dari senioritas kursi musik telah dimulai. Francisco Rufino, seorang juru masak goreng berusia 33 tahun di hotel kasino Paris Las Vegas selama sembilan tahun terakhir, menabrak sebuah kafe di sana karena pemotongan di restoran kasino kelas atas. “Pada gilirannya, saya menggusur juru masak lain – yang diberhentikan,” katanya.

Meski begitu, masih banyak yang berharap. Mr Bastianich sedang merencanakan sebuah restoran di Venetian, sementara diberi judul Nancy's Luncheonette, menawarkan makanan Nancy Silverton, mitra Los Angeles-nya di Osteria Mozza dengan Mr Batali.

Mr Maccioni, yang mengatakan bahwa dia berusia 75 tahun, tidak terhalang untuk membuka restoran bertema Tuscan di CityCenter — “dengan 175 kursi dan bar yang indah,” katanya — untuk disebut Sirio.

Pemilik restoran kota hampir tidak pernah berhenti naik ke tingkat yang mencengangkan dalam menawarkan kemewahan untuk selera yang halus. Carnevino 300 kursi menawarkan daging sapi yang diberi makan rumput yang diverifikasi sumbernya, dikeringkan selama tujuh minggu di fasilitas penuaannya sendiri di Las Vegas di mana chip komputer mengontrol aliran udara dan kelembaban.

Dan Bartolotta Ristorante di Mare dengan 230 tempat duduk di Wynn menerbangkan satu ton makanan laut setiap minggu dari Mediterania, termasuk kepiting cangkang lunak dari Venesia dan udang merah kekaisaran dari Maroko. Beberapa ikan dikirim hidup-hidup, dan semuanya diangkut "di pesawat penumpang yang akan terbang apakah ikan saya ada di dalamnya atau tidak," kata Paul Bartolotta, 48, yang pernah berlatih di Taillevent di Paris dan memasak di Spiaggia di Chicago.

Rick Moonen di RM Seafood di Mandalay Bay menawarkan tiga jenis tiram Pantai Timur, serta kepiting Dungeness hidup dan lobster Maine. “Anda harus gila ingin menawarkan seafood yang berkelanjutan di tengah gurun pasir,” kata Mr Moonen, yang dianugerahi tiga bintang dari The New York Times pada tahun 2002 untuk karyanya di RM Seafood di Manhattan, dan sekarang, seperti Tuan Bartolotta, tinggal di sini.

Tapi Mr Moonen dan lain-lain menemukan bahwa kemewahan hanya dapat membawa mereka sejauh ini hari ini. Di restorannya yang bertema bahari senilai $6 juta, volumenya naik, katanya, tetapi rata-rata cek, yang dulunya $65 hingga $70, sekarang "di tahun 40-an." Tiga bulan lalu, Mr. Moonen harus menutup restoran fine diningnya yang berkapasitas 80 kursi, RM Seafood Upstairs, dengan cek rata-rata $120. “Itu adalah hari yang mengerikan,” katanya, “tetapi kami akan membuka kembali pada musim gugur.”

Alessandro Stratta mengatakan restoran kasualnya di Wynn Las Vegas, Stratta, dengan biaya cek rata-rata $60, “30 persen lebih sibuk tahun ini daripada tahun lalu.” Tapi restorannya yang mewah, Alex, dengan cek rata-rata $320 per orang, pendapatannya turun 15 persen, dan sekarang buka empat hari, bukan lima.

Dalam perekonomian ini, kata David McIntyre, wakil presiden untuk makanan dan minuman di MGM Grand, “tidak cukup hanya keluar dengan menu prix fixe, Anda harus mendefinisikan ulang produk Anda.”

Jadi kasino Nobhill Tavern menyusun kembali papan menunya dan sekarang “ada penurunan 40 persen per cek,” kata Mr. McIntyre. "Tapi sekarang volume total kami naik 60 persen."

Dan meskipun Joël Robuchon 66 kursi masih menawarkan icip menu 16-kursus $385, sekarang menyajikan dua hidangan seharga $89.

Oleh karena itu, kedatangan restoran pesaing di CityCenter tidak ditunggu secara universal.

“Saya tidak ingin menyakiti siapa pun,” kata Mr. Bartolotta, “tetapi apakah kita membutuhkan 20 restoran lagi? Tidak. Sekarang, semua orang berlomba-lomba untuk mendapatkan bagian dari kue yang menyusut.”

Tetapi Bart Mahoney, wakil presiden untuk makanan dan minuman dari mitra CityCenter MGM Mirage, mengatakan bahwa “Kami berharap dapat menumbuhkan pasar.”

Robert Goldstein, presiden pesaing berusia 54 tahun, Venetian, terdengar optimis tentang CityCenter saat dia duduk di kantornya di lantai dua yang menghadap ke replika Campanile dan Bridge of Sighs skala 90 persen dari kasino. "Ini tidak akan menjadi akhir dunia, dan itu tidak akan memulai kembali pariwisata di Las Vegas," katanya. "Ini hanya proyek lain yang dibuka di masa yang sulit."

Dia merujuk pada artikel sampul majalah Life tanggal 20 Juni 1955, yang telah dia bingkai, menggambarkan penari cancan kasino dan menyatakan: “Las Vegas — Apakah Boom Berlebihan?”

Dia menambahkan: “Las Vegas sedikit turun sekarang, dan sekarang kota ini dibangun berlebihan. Tapi apakah Anda benar-benar berpikir semua ini akan memudar dan menjadi hitam?”


Makanan Keberuntungan

Saya menelepon Danny Meyer, pemilik restoran New York yang serba tahu, dan mengatakan kepadanya bahwa saya memiliki pertanyaan tentang Las Vegas.

Sebelum aku bisa melanjutkan, dia memotongku.

"Jawabannya adalah uang," katanya. "Apa pertanyaannya?"

Ini akan menjadi ini: Mengapa koki tidak bisa mengatakan tidak?

Hari ini, semua orang pergi ke Las Vegas untuk berjudi, kecuali koki, yang pergi ke sana dengan jaminan kekayaan mereka. Sebutkan koki yang telah menerbitkan buku masak (bagus), memenangkan James Beard Award (lebih baik), sering muncul di televisi (terbaik), atau memiliki acara memasak sendiri (jackpot), dan seseorang dari Vegas akan menelepon. Moto baru mafia hotel Vegas: Bunuh mereka dengan uang tunai.

Sebelum eksekutif hotel Vegas menemukan potensi keuntungan yang luar biasa dari makanan, saya suka makan di sana. Bukan di prasmanan, tempat penggemukan untuk umat manusia. Saya berbicara tentang waktu sebelumnya, ketika setiap hotel memiliki tiga jenis restoran — tidak lebih, tidak kurang. Mereka berbicara tentang kota dengan cara yang sama seperti Brown Derby berbicara tentang Hollywood, dan sekarang mereka pergi.

Kedai kopi adalah pusat komunitas, pusat politik, sosial, dan terkadang bahkan kehidupan keluarga. Yang terbaik adalah di Caesars Palace, di mana saya makan malam Thanksgiving pada tahun 1968 dengan kepala perjudian hotel, seorang teman keluarga lama. Dia ingin memberi saya hadiah yang bagus sebelum saya berangkat ke Vietnam, jadi dia menyuruh beberapa meja disatukan, dan saya makan kalkun dan isian bersama keluarganya. Setelah itu, istrinya meminjamkan saya mobil Pontiac convertible merah mudanya untuk berkeliling kota, dan dia meminjamkan saya seorang gadis panggung ketika saya tidak mengemudi di sekitar kota.

Ruang pamer kasino bukan hanya untuk memelototi gadis karier yang tersesat. Mereka juga menyediakan santapan mewah (biasanya di prime rib) sebelum Steve dan Eydie naik ke atas panggung. Sekarang tempat duduk di ruang pamer hampir selalu bergaya teater, dan Anda tidak akan mendapatkan pertunjukan gratis dengan makan malam kecuali jika Anda berminat untuk jousting di King Arthur's Arena (Pasukan penyerbu! Gadis menari!). Ruang gourmet adalah untuk para high roller—mereka belum disebut paus. Hampir semua orang dipaksa, sebuah praktik yang bertahan hingga tahun 90-an. Kamar gourmet umumnya menampilkan keahlian memasak yang paling mencolok ditambah Bordeaux pertumbuhan pertama dari tahun-tahun buruk. Mereka memiliki nama yang indah: Sultan's Table di Dunes the Regency Room di Sands Palace Court di Caesars Palace House of Lords di Sahara dan Candlelight Room di Flamingo.

Jika Anda pernah ke Vegas dalam beberapa tahun terakhir, Anda mungkin berpikir itu telah menjadi kota restoran yang hebat. Kamu mungkin benar. Itu bukan kota makanan yang sangat baik. Restoran hotel—tidak ada yang peduli dengan jenis lainnya—semuanya sama, luas dan mahal. Mereka tidak memiliki perbedaan yang signifikan kecuali untuk dekorasi mereka, yang bisa sangat mencengangkan, mulai dari Cina Limoges hingga laguna yang dipenuhi angsa. Namun, ketika setiap restoran menghabiskan biaya $6 juta hingga $10 juta untuk membangun, kesamaan melebihi perbedaan. Ini adalah kutukan orang yang terlalu kaya: Ada begitu banyak tempat yang dapat dibeli oleh seseorang dengan uang tak terbatas.

Santapan mewah di Vegas adalah tentang yang berkilauan dan yang baru. Ini adalah masakan perusahaan kelas atas untuk massa. Ini tentang tempat duduk banyak orang dan dengan cepat memindahkan mereka ke kasino dan ruang pamer. Sebagian besar pelanggan mencoba mencicipi menu mereka dalam sembilan puluh menit, tetapi yang harus Anda lakukan hanyalah meminta dan makanan akan datang lebih cepat. Ukuran tidak terbatas pada rekaman persegi. Kaki kubik juga sangat berarti. Restoran tidak hanya harus lebar, tetapi juga harus tinggi—empat puluh dua kaki dalam kasus Aureole. Apakah semua orang bahagia? aku takut begitu.

Inilah buletinnya: Restoran-restoran baru ini tidak hanya mengubah kota. Mereka juga mengubah santapan di Amerika. Itu berita besar. Vegas dikunjungi hingga 40 juta pengunjung per tahun, dan satu-satunya kegiatan rekreasi wajib mereka, selain bertingkah konyol, adalah makan. Vegas sekarang menjadi tempat di mana pelajaran tentang makan enak sedang dicetak pada kesadaran kolektif Amerika.

Pelanggan yang tidak berpengalaman mengetahui bahwa restoran mewah menawarkan kesenangan indra yang berlebihan yang dikombinasikan dengan keseragaman gastronomi. Apakah mereka menghabiskan uang mereka di San Francisco atau New York, mereka mungkin belajar sesuatu yang berbeda, tetapi mereka tidak pergi ke kota-kota itu untuk menjadi pengunjung yang berprestasi, tidak lagi. Ruang sekolah mereka adalah restoran yang ditujukan untuk konvensi, akun pengeluaran, dan liburan yang luar biasa, perusahaan tanpa sejarah atau tradisi, restoran yang tidak ada sepuluh tahun yang lalu.

Inilah pesan pertama yang meresahkan: Mereka diajari bahwa sebuah restoran bisa menjadi luar biasa meskipun tidak memiliki masa lalu, tidak memiliki kepribadian, dan tidak memiliki keunikan. Amerika menciptakan standarisasi makanan untuk menjual hamburger lima belas sen, dan sekarang monster itu lepas.

Pengunjung Vegas percaya bahwa bersantap di restoran chef Guy Savoy di Caesars Palace tidak berbeda dengan bersantap di restorannya di Paris, dan bersantap di Daniel Boulud Brasserie di Vegas sama dengan bersantap di Daniel di New York. (Guy Savoy di Vegas memang dimaksudkan untuk menjadi replika kuliner, tetapi tempat Boulud yang agak santai di Wynn sangat berbeda dari kapal utama New York.) Untuk rata-rata orang Amerika—benar-benar puas dengan adaptasi dan terlalu acuh atau terlalu malas untuk peduli dengan pengalaman asli —Vegas telah menjadi hal yang nyata.

Saya bahkan tidak yakin lagi apa arti nama yang dilampirkan ke restoran. Apakah Daniel Boulud dan Guy Savoy mewakili orang-orang nyata bagi mereka yang makan di restoran mereka, atau hanya logo? Mungkin Bobby Flay dan Emeril Lagasse dianggap sebagai daging dan darah karena mereka terlihat di TV. Semua orang adalah merek dagang. Untuk pengunjung pemula, koki bukan lagi orang yang memasak.

Pelakunya di sini adalah branding, yang merupakan replikasi tanpa berpikir. Charlie Palmer, seorang koki dengan dua restoran Vegas, sedang merencanakan sebuah kondominium-hotel, langkah berikutnya (tapi tentu saja tidak final) dalam menciptakan gaya hidup Charlie Palmer yang komprehensif. Ini terjadi atas nama dua ambisi besar Amerika kita, menghasilkan uang dan bersenang-senang.

Hal yang mendasar dari perincian penting dari pengalaman bersantap mewah adalah tidak adanya koki terkenal. Saya pergi ke tiga belas restoran di Vegas, dan hanya tiga koki yang hadir: Paul Bartolotta dari Bartolotta Ristorante di Mare di Wynn Guy Savoy, di kota untuk pembukaan restorannya di Caesars Palace dan Tom Colicchio, yang menjalankan Craftsteak di MGM Grand . Colicchio kebetulan berada di kota merekam episode Koki Top untuk Bravo, bukan berarti dia tidak bekerja keras di dapur di antara waktu pengambilan. Koki dengan restoran di Vegas cenderung menghasilkan $300.000 hingga $750.000 per tahun, pada dasarnya untuk penggunaan nama mereka. Beberapa yang datang untuk bekerja secara teratur dapat memperoleh bonus tambahan karena muncul.

Sebagian besar restoran Vegas, terlepas dari biayanya, adalah waralaba kelas atas. Mereka memiliki nama besar, anggaran besar, dan sedikit lainnya. Mereka adalah tiruan. Ini tragis, karena waralaba menghancurkan kreativitas. Ini menghentikan perkembangan koki. Itu menipu pelanggan. Pemilik restoran yang sudah mapan, sebagian besar, tidak setuju dengan saya.

Saya bertanya kepada Drew Nieporent, pemilik restoran terkenal di New York, apakah menurut dia replika dari tempat yang disayangi lebih unggul daripada yang asli dari koki yang tidak dikenal, dan dia menjawab, "Buatan tiruan lebih baik." Dia membuka cabang Nobu in the Hard Rock Hotel & Casino—ketika saya berada di Vegas, itu adalah reservasi yang paling sulit didapat. Dia berkata, “Pengembang besar ini lebih suka memanggil orang seperti saya daripada membuat sesuatu yang baru dan orisinal. Sangat mudah, dan itu dikemas. Bahkan, itu di luar grafik. Mereka pikir itu mudah, dan untuk seseorang yang punya uang, itu mudah.” Tambah Charlie Trotter, yang memiliki restoran yang gagal di Vegas pada tahun 90-an dan diharapkan untuk mencoba lagi tahun depan, “Katakanlah Spago di Las Vegas tidak seperti sebagus Spago di Beverly Hills. Saya tidak tahu apakah itu, tetapi bukankah Spago yang 85 persen sebagus aslinya lebih baik daripada operator hotel yang membuka restoran?

Saya sudah makan di Nobu di New York dan di Vegas. Hal yang sama untuk Spago di Beverly Hills dan di Vegas. Masalahnya adalah mereka tidak 85 persen. Saya akan memberikan 60 persen kepada Nobu di Vegas, sebagian karena pemilihannya ceroboh dan sebagian karena sambungannya kacau. Spago in Vegas drops under 50 percent because it’s not nearly as ambitious as the estimable Spago in Beverly Hills and because the food seems to be ecuted mechanically—the famous Chinese chicken salad looked and tasted as though it had been assembled in a Cuisinart.

Trotter is correct in principle: If those restaurants were at 85 percent, they might be acceptable, but they’re not close. They lack animation and spirit. Most are classy looking, but they look like the creations of hotel corporations, not restaurateurs, and the most exciting day for a hotel ecutive is the one in which a chandelier salesman stops by. There are no adventures in dining in Las Vegas. Missing are independent-minded restaurants, such as Montrachet in New York and Charlie Trotter’s in Chicago, the places that launched the careers of Nieporent and Trotter.

Visitors to Vegas are getting the message that restaurants aren’t worth patronizing if they haven’t made a name for themselves somewhere else.

Even before Las Vegas ecutives created their new economic prototype—hotels, casinos, and restaurants as revenue partners—hotel dining in America had undergone a revival. Owners realized that restaurants could bring life, as well as customers, to the terrible void that was their lobbies and bars. And if they brought in restaurants with the right names, the seats were practically presold. Only beloved old Broadway musicals are more of a sure thing. Vegas gets no credit for ending the terrible ennui that was hotel dining. What it has done brilliantly is work out a particular ambience problem. It created a perverse form of alfresco dining, seating areas open not to the air but to the noise and lights of the casino. To some guests, this constitutes entertainment. At the very least, the clatter is an excuse for people dining together to engage in no conversation whatsoever.

Hotel planners follow systems, like card counters at blackjack tables. The architect David Rockwell, who designed the interior of the Mohegan Sun in Connecticut, calls the climactic design element at every Vegas hotel the Big Weenie. He explains, “It can be a lake, a volcano, a sphinx, a pyramid.“

There are Restaurant Weenies, too. The most famous is Aureole’s four-story wine tower, which features “wine angels“ soaring up and down on wires—they have a lot more in common with rappelling Army Rangers to me. The ultimate Restaurant Weenies are at Alain Ducasse’s Mix in Las Vegas, on the sixty-fourth floor of the Hotel at Mandalay Bay. Above the bar, suspended from the ceiling, is an intimate seating area my showgirl-quality waitress described as “a strawberry that’s landed in the dessert.“ In the dining room is a huge white amorphous blob, a kind of space platform, possibly representing a champagne bubble. Celebrities canoodle in both the berry and the bubble.

The most normal-looking restaurant I visited was Michael Mina’s. It has low ceilings, an open kitchen, and simplicity of design. I never ate in one similar to it. The overly colorful Bartolotta Ristorante di Mare is a tribute to a time-honored fishing technique—toss a stick of dynamite into a lake and splatter bits and pieces of things everywhere. The room has several centerpieces, Mini-Weenies, huge urns that appear to serve no apparent purpose, although they are large enough to hide the bodies that the Mob used to bury in the desert. Oddly, this restaurant also offers one of the most serene and attractive dining options in Vegas, cabana-style tables circling an artificial lake. Such a wacky indoor-outdoor contrast could exist only in the mind of a Vegas entrepreneur.

Absent from Vegas restaurants are women. Don’t expect hatcheck girls. There are none. Don’t look for female celebrity chefs. Not represented. Mother Nature doesn’t get much respect, either. In Vegas, the natural world exists only in bogus form. Hotel owners love ordering up artificial lakes or indoor gardens, and most are predictably calming, an exception being Wynn’s Lake of Dreams. I found it unsettling to eat while staring out at a bunch of semi-immersed statues that seemed to represent naked gamblers drowning themselves after losing their shirts. At Bartolotta Ristorante di Mare, just as the chef was telling me that he wanted his restaurant to feel as though it were on the coast of Italy with speedboats roaring by, along came a vacuum-cleaning machine about the size of a Zamboni, noisily sweeping the carpet outside his front door.

Noticeably missing from Vegas restaurants are smells, which are sucked away with uncanny efficiency. Hotels are continually invaded by tourist bodies sweaty from walking up and down the Strip. Once a magical string of lights, the Strip has been transformed into a garish indoor-outdoor mall with a scorching pedestrian walkway. Walkers walk in. Walkers cool off. Walkers walk out. The coefficient of perspiration—my term—must be stupendous. Without gigantic ventilation systems, hotels would ripen. Think of the crew quarters on nuclear submarines. Still, something is lost when restaurants become as sterile as operating rooms.

Another lesson: The natural world never wins in Vegas.

Las Vegas is essentially artificial, a cubic zirconium. The hotels shimmer in the desert, one part Imax, one part simulacrum, one part mirage. The city offers one great experience that no other major city on earth can match, free parking for one and all. (You can upgrade to valet parking at no additional charge.) The restaurants are the apex of American extravagance. They have the tallest ceilings, the biggest rooms, the largest portions, and the maximum prices. This, by the way, is good news for struggling chefs across the country. The people who visit Las Vegas are learning to pay staggering prices for food.

Surf and turf at Michael Mina’s goes for $85. Rack of lamb at Joël Robuchon’s L’Atelier, $55. Colicchio’s ten-ounce Kobe filet, $110. My meal for two at the newly opened Guy Savoy was about $500 without wine. The last man I knew who operated an all-comp room was Trotter. He opened at the MGM Grand in 1994 and was out of business a little more than a year later. A nonrival restaurateur said of Trotter’s failure, “He did tasting menus, the same as he was doing in Chicago. That’s just what a person who has lost $50,000 gambling wants to eat—minuscule portions for four hours.“


4 thoughts on &ldquo RM SEAFOOD &rdquo

I agree with you John, Chef Moonen is more than deserving of recognition by Michelin and also the James Beard Foundation.

His knowledge of not only seafood, but the sugar content of different types of peaches (paired with silky foie gras), is incredible-and it shows in his cuisine.

In my book, while some of the other upscale fish restaurants in town are quite good, I think RM’s overall cuisine, (which focuses on seafood), ranks it as the top seafood restaurant in town.

We ate at the downstairs RM Seafood restaurant on Wednesday and I got the Restaurant Week menu with the crab cake and scallops. The food was okay but pretty pedestrian. My scallops were gritty and I thought the red pepper coulis was too sweet and overpowered the scallops. The service was really annoying too with the waiter taking everyone’s plates as soon as people finished, even though other people were still eating.

I wasn’t planning on going back there, is the upstairs restaurant worth a second chance?

I would definately recommend the upstairs dining room. We found the service to be almost too attentive. Not to the point of taking plates away too fast like you experienced at the Cafe. (But how many times can they scrape the crumbs off the table cloth!).

Really, they were very gracious and all of the wait staff were well-informed as to how the dishes were prepared and the source of the ingredients. The wine service was especially good.

We ate upstairs a couple of weeks ago and everything was superb. Even my abalone dish was cooked perfectly and every dish on the table was completely on point. Sommelier/GM Jeff Eichelberger is a consummate professional and is creating a amazing list of sustainably farmed wines to compliment Chef Moonen’s sustainable food philosophies. I have always been a big fan of Rick Moonen the person and now I am an extremely big fan of Rick Moonen the Chef!

PS. The Ice Cream game is the perfect way the end the meal, especially after two bottles of wine!


10 GREAT MEALS

If you eat one meal in Las Vegas, do it at Lotus. (Well, that and breakfast at the Wynn buffet – see below.) Yes, this Thai dive has been lauded coast to coast, but it still feels like one of the city’s best-kept secrets, largely due to its location. It’s tucked away inside Commercial Center, one of Vegas’ most famously dodgy strip malls, east of the Strip. Stores run the gamut from Serge’s Showgirl Wigs to a Filipino Christian church to a variety of sex clubs licensed (but poorly concealed) as novelty shops and health spas. Don’t let that put you off some of the best Thai food west of the Mississippi. Easy-to-miss, the walls of this diminutive dining room are plastered with the hundreds of press clippings that justifiably praise chef Saipin Chutima’s cooking. Avoid the bafflingly bad lunch buffet and request the Chiang Mai menu to try her northern specialties like sai ua (country pork sausage full of basil) and kai soi (curry noodles garnished with pickled vegetable, red shallots and lime). A warning: Trust the waiters on the heat levels or you’ll leave with seared taste buds. From the main menu, try seared scallops with chile and mint leaves, tangy beef jerky and fried, salted fish chunks. Cool down with the other big surprise: Lotus’s incredible wine list, full of hard-to-find Rieslings that perfectly douse the flames.

INFO: 953 E. Sahara Ave. (702) 735-3033

2) Rosemary’s Restaurant

This mostly-locals spot on Sahara, just ten minutes west of the Strip, serves incredible comfort food derived from the Southern and Midwestern roots of chefs Michael and Wendy Jordan, influenced by France. If it sounds like a strange combo, you’ll be converted when you try the dishes. The menu changes often, but some items thankfully never go away, like Hugo’s Texas BBQ shrimp, served over Maytag bleu-cheese-laced coleslaw. Other standouts include thick pork chops with hopping John (rice and peas seasoned with fatback) and Creole mustard reduction and striped bass with crispy skin atop a hash of andouille sausage, rock shrimp, and fingerling potatoes with a Creole meuniére sauce. The best time to go is Sunday nights, when chefs and sommeliers come here on their nights off, bottles of wine are half-price and you can eat at the bar or one of the high tables surrounding it and overhear some of the best restaurant-industry gossip in Las Vegas.

INFO: 8125 W. Sahara Ave. (702) 869-2251 rosemaryrestaurant.com

3) Bartolotta Ristorante di Mare

One of the most extravagant Mediterranean seafood experiences, well, ever, Bartolotta receives a daily shipment of langoustines, cuttlefish, and prehistoric-looking slipper lobster from the Ionian, Tyrrhenian, Adriatic and Ligurian seas. Chef Paul Bartolotta (formerly of San Domenico in New York, Spiaggia in Chicago and still a household name in his native Milwaukee), is nearly always in the kitchen, ensuring the astounding quality of everything that comes out. The theatrical bi-level room – with neo-Baroque chandeliers and tented outdoor dining loggias surrounding a lake – is maximalist. The best dishes – fish you can choose from a cart piled high and then simply grilled with olive oil, lemon and parsley – are minimalist. The best way to eat at Bartolotta is family-style. Bring along as many friends as you can and order either the Menu di Paranza or the Gran Menu di Mare (for $135 and $155 per person), and allow the chef to prepare a meal of the day’s best ingredients. In a town filled with big-ticket restaurants, this is one so very worth the splurge.

INFO: 3131 Las Vegas Blvd. South (inside Wynn Las Vegas) (888) 372-3463 www.wynnlasvegas.com

4) Buffet at Wynn Las Vegas

Even non-buffet people will like this fanciful departure from the usual Vegas trough, er, buffet line (generally characterized by harsh décor and overcooked, institutional food). First, and most importantly, it’s lit overhead by natural light, evoking a garden party (unlike other buffets, which evoke the fluorescent-lit school cafeterias of our youth). Towers of fruit and flowers fill the central atrium, around which are arranged multiple stations. You’ll find faultlessly fresh maki rolls, ceviche, tandoori chicken and truffled risotto among the Mexican, seafood, Japanese, Indian and Italian selections. An entire sweetshop-style room is devoted to pastries, baba au rhum, lemon tarts, bread pudding, and a full complement of gelato flavors. The pastry chef has even thoughtfully included sugar-free desserts so everyone can indulge. If you’re not in a hurry, offer to wait in order to secure a table in the atrium – you’ll be glad you did.

INFO: inside Wynn Las Vegas, 3131 Las Vegas Blvd. South (877) 321-9966 www.wynnlasvegas.com

5) Vintner Grill

While most of the best restaurants off the Strip can be found in a strip mall, Vintner Grill has mixed things up and opened in an office park. Never mind: They’ve done a grand job creating a Hamptons-like environment in the all-white modern dining room, which opened in 2006. Close to Red Rock Casino (a 15-20 minute drive from the Strip), the Mediterranean-influenced American dishes include Moroccan-spiced lamb spareribs crispy wood-fired flatbreads (try prosciutto with roasted peppers, fennel, micro arugula and white truffle oil) and halibut with toasted orzo, lemon gremolata, and sweet tomatoes. Everything is well paired with a reasonably priced wine list of more than 200 bottles, half-bottles, and wines by the glass, from 10 different countries. Dinner for two, with wine, $150.

INFO: 10100 W. Charleston Blvd, Suite 150 (702) 214-5590 www.vglasvegas.com

6) Marche Bacchus

What began as a wine shop called Marche Bacchus has evolved over the years into Bistro Bacchus: Pass through the impressive shop and you’ll find yourself on a tiered patio on a manmade lake – definitely one of the Vegas valley’s most transformative experiences. The waterfront tables are the most romantic in town, lit by torches and tiny twinkling lights. Wander the aisles inside and select your own wine (competitively priced to the Strip even with the $10 corkage fee) and order the charcuterie plate with pate, French salami, prosciutto and red onion confit or moules frites steamed in wine with Parmesan-crusted frites. The whole experience is very affordable – two can easily slink out down only around $60.

INFO: 2620 Regatta Drive (702) 804-8008

7) L’Atelier de Joi 1/2l Robuchon

The 16-course tasting menu at Joi 1/2l Robuchon at the Mansion is nothing short of amazing – and totally ponderous (it’s also more like 20 courses, after cheese, bread, multiple sweets courses, coffee, etc.) A better way to sample the three-Michelin-starred master chef’s French cuisine can be found next door, at L’Atelier de Joi 1/2l Robuchon, a microscopic, sushi bar-style counter surrounding a very open kitchen. Order the tangy steak tartare with perfectly crispy crinkle fries, and watch the chefs execute each precisely plated dish. Throw caution to the wind and order Robuchon’s cream-and-butter laden signature pommes purée along with the fries. Sure, there’s one in New York, but this one’s so much more laid back (plus, there’s way more bar seating).

INFO: Inside MGM Grand, 3799 Las Vegas Blvd. South (702) 891-7358 www.joel-robuchon.com

8) Paymon’s Mediterranean

Las Vegas’s least likely favorite college hangout is also one of its best restaurants: a former Mediterranean deli that morphed into an incredible Turkish, Persian, and Greek restaurant near the UNLV campus on the eastside of the Strip. Paymon’s, named after Iran-born Paymon Raouf who began cooking his childhood favorites here in the late 1970s, has a new location 20 minutes west of the Strip on Sahara. Here, you’ll find a more grown-up crowd, but eating the same intricately spiced dishes like fesenjan, chicken in crushed walnuts and pomegranate sauce and cinnamon-spiced moussaka. Or, just spend the entire time in the hookah lounge next door, slouching in its velvet banquets beneath sexily lantern-lit, tapestry-bedecked walls. It’s as authentic as any Middle Eastern sheesha café. Order one of the fragrant fruit and floral hookahs to pass around (try the rose), and a selection of appetizers like meat-stuffed grape leaves and hummus.

INFO: 8380 W. Sahara Ave (702) 804-0293

9) Abuyira Raku

Tucked in the back of one of the many shopping centers that comprise Las Vegas’ vibrant Chinatown, this small Japanese joint is a current chef favorite – come here after midnight on a Friday and it could just end up being a who’s-who of major players on the strip. Its extensive robata (grilled items) and oden (broth pot) menus are a draw, as are the specials: On a recent evening, we tried the golden-eye snapper collar with a tofu-laden broth – a steal at $35, but priced through the roof compared to the rest of the very reasonable menu. It’s open until three o’clock in the morning on weekends, perfect when you’ve got the late-night munchies for something other than a bad buffet. Points if you order the “meat guts,” which actually turn out to be a very tasty pork stomach dish.

INFO: 5030 Spring Mountain Road, (702) 367-3511

10) T.C.’s Rib Crib

Vegas is a town with its share of barbecue pretenders, but this is smoked meat at its most authentic, from a man who left Katrina-ruined Louisiana with family recipes in his pocket. At this way-west, pocked-sized shrine to Southern cooking, you’ll eat at cafeteria-style tables under harsh, fluorescent lighting. And you’ll like it. Choose from moist pulled pork, spare ribs, baby backs and beef ribs (pork is better) with sides like spicy collards and fried okra. Ask for sweet tea or Kool-Aid (on tap), and check the chalkboard for the glazed-doughnut bread pudding. We like to order one of the giant “Lots O’ Meat” meal deals, which come with sides named after various uncles and cousins. We also take perverse pleasure in ordering it to go, back to as fancy a hotel room as we can manage.


Tag: Desert Companion

We seemed invincible once, didn’t we? Thirty years of ever-expanding prosperity will do that to you. Having survived Gulf wars, dot-com busts, recessions, mass shootings and depressions, it was a cinch the public’s appetite for all things Las Vegas was insatiable. Since 1994, we had seen one restaurant boom after another: celebrity chefs, the French Revolution of the early aughts, Chinatown’s twenty year expansion, Downtown’s resurgence — all of it gave us rabid restaurant revelers a false sense of security. A cocky confidence that the crowds would flock and the champagne would always flow.

And then we were floored by a Covid left hook no one saw coming. Poleaxed, cold-cocked, out on our feet. In an instant, literally, thirty years of progress hit the mat. To keep the metaphor going, we’ve now lifted ourselves to the ropes for a standing eight count. The question remains whether we can recover and still go the distance, or take one more punch and suffer a brutal TKO.

There was an eeriness to everything in those early months, as if a relative had died, or we were living in a bad dream. A sense of loss and apology filled the air. Like someone knocked unconscious (or awakening from a nightmare), our first instincts were to reassure ourselves. Restaurants were there to feed and help us back to our feet and the feelings were mutual. Reassurances and gratitude were the watchwords whenever you picked up a pizza or grabbed take-out from a chef struggling to make sense of it all.

Then, as quick as an unseen uppercut, the mood turned surly and defensive. The moment restaurants were given the go-ahead to start seating people again, the battle lines were drawn. It took some weeks to build the trenches, but by July, what began as a “we’re all in this together” fight for survival devolved into a multi-front war pitting survivalists on all sides against each other. Mutual support evaporated as tensions arose between those needing to make a living and those who saw epidemic death around every corner. Caught in the middle were the patrons: people who just wanted to go out, take advantage of our incredible restaurant scene and have a good time. Suddenly, everyone felt uncomfortable, and in a matter of a few calamitous weeks, dining out in America went from “we’re here to have a good time” to “let’s all struggle to get through this’ — not exactly a recipe for a good time, which is, after all, the whole point of eating out.

Reduced hours and crowds meant shorter menus, since every restaurant in town was forced to narrow its food options. No one seemed to mind, since anyone taking the time to dine out was simply happy the place was open. But if you sum it all up — the rules, the emptiness, the fear, the feeling of everyone being on guard — it’s a wonder anyone bothered going out at all. But going out to eat is what we do, because it is fun, convenient and delicious, and because we are human.

As Las Vegas’s most intrepid gastronaut, I’ve had to curb my voracious appetite more than anyone. Overnight my routine went from visiting ten restaurants a week to a mere few. Even in places where I’m on a first-name basis with the staff, the experience is as suppressed as the voices of the waiters. Instead of concentrating on hospitality, the singular focus is now on following all the rules. All of which makes you appreciate how the charm of restaurants stems from the sincerity of those serving you — something hard to notice when you can’t see their face.

Nowhere are these feelings more acute than on the Strip. “Las Vegas needs conventions to survive,” says Gino Ferraro, facing the simplest of facts. “If the hotels suffer, we suffer.” He’s owned Ferraro’s Italian Restaurant and Wine Bar since 1985 and will be the first to tell you how thin the margins are for success in the business. Restaurants are in your blood more than your bank account, and micromanaging, cutting costs, and (hopefully) another year of government assistance are what he sees as keys to their survival. “Good restaurants will survive, but there’s no doubt there will be less of them.”

Unlike the free-standing Ferraro’s, the Strip is different. There, the restaurants are amenities — like stores in a mall if you will — and from Sunday-Thursday (when the conventions arrived) they used to thrive. These days, like Ferraro’s, they still pack ’em in on weekends, but almost all are closed Monday-Wednesday. This doesn’t mean the food or the service has suffered, far from it, only that everyone is hanging on by their fingernails, and this anxiety is palpable when you walk through the doors. The staffs are almost too welcoming, which is nice, but you can sense the fear and it’s not pretty, and it is not going away for many months to come.

As Vegas slowly re-opens, one thing you can no longer take for granted is that each hotel will have a full compliment of dining options, from the most modest to world famous. If I had to make a prediction, it would be that a year from now, some hotels may field a smaller team of culinary superstars, and their bench will not be as deep, and those stars will have another season of wear and tear on them without any talented rookies to come along and take their place.

Long before the shutdown, there were signs we had reached peak Vegas and things were starting to wane. Some fancy French venues were showing their age, the Venetian/Palazzo (with its panoply of dining options), seemed overstuffed, and rumblings were heard that even the indefatigable David Chang had lost his fastball. The same could be said for the whole celebrity-chef-thing, which was starting to feel very end-of-last-century by the end of last year. The Palms’ murderer’s row of newly-minted sluggers was mired in a slump, and our gleaming, big box, pan-Asian eye-candy (Tao, Hakkasan) were not shining as bright as they once did.

The stakes are much higher when you consider the reputation of Las Vegas as a whole. Survey the landscape these days and all you can ask is, how much of this damage is permanent? It took from 1989-2019 to take Las Vegas from “The Town That Taste Forgot” to a world class, destination dining capital — a claim to fame like no other — where an entire planet of gastronomic delights, cooked by some of the best chefs in the business, was concentrated among a dozen swanky, closely-packed hotels. Now, what are we? A convention city with no conventions? A tourist mecca three days a week? Can we recapture this lost ground, or is some of it gone forever? Everyone is asking but no one has the answers.

Perhaps a culling of the herd was already in the works and all Covid did was accelerate the process. Are the big money restaurant days over? Certainly until those conventions return, and no one is predicting that until next year, at the earliest. If that’s the case, it will be a leaner/meaner gastronomic world that awaits us down the road — not the cornucopia of choices laid before you every night, no matter what style of food struck your fancy. The fallout will include the casinos playing it safe not throwing money at chefs like they once did, and sticking with the tried a true for awhile. Less ambitious restaurant choices? Sangat. It is impossible to imagine a single European concept making a splash like Joël Robuchon did in 2005, or any Food Network star getting the red carpet treatment just for slapping their name on a door. The era of Flay, Ramsay, Andrés and others is over, and the “next big thing” in Las Vegas dining won’t be a thing for a long time.

If the Strip’s prospects look bleak (at least in the short term), locally the resilience has been astounding. Neighborhood venues hunkered down like everyone else, but now seem poised for a resurgence at a much faster rate than anything happening in the hotels. If the Strip resembles a pod of beached whales, struggling to get back in the water, then local restaurants are the more nimble pilot fish, darting about, servicing smaller crowds wherever they find them. Four new worthwhile venues are popping up downtown: upscale tacos at Letty’s, Yu-Or-Mi Sushi and Sake, Good Pie and the American gastro-pub Main Street Provisions, all in the Arts District. Off the Strip Mitsuo Endo has debuted his high-toned yakitori bar — Raku Toridokoro — to much acclaim, and brew pubs are multiplying everywhere faster than peanut butter stouts.

Chinatown — with its indomitable Asians at the helm — seems the least fazed by any of this, and Circa will spring to life before year’s end on Fremont Street, hoping to capture some of the hotel mojo sadly absent a few miles south. Going forward, some of these imposed restrictions will remain in place to ensure survival (more take-out, smaller menus, fewer staff), but the bottom line is look to the neighborhoods if you wish to recapture that rarest of sensations these days, a sense of normalcy.

Watching my favorites absorb these body blows has been like nursing a sick child who did nothing to deserve such a cruel fate. In a way it’s made me realize that’s what these restaurants have become to me over decades: a community of fledgling businesses I’ve supported and watched grow in a place no one thought possible. As social experiments go, the great public health shutdown of 2020 will be debated for years, but this much is true: Las Vegas restaurants were at their peak on March 15, 2020, and reaching that pinnacle is a mountain many of them will never again climb.


On High-Stakes Tables in Las Vegas: Fish, Not Chips

LAS VEGAS - JOËL ROBUCHON and his creations travel very nicely, thank you.

His newest venture, Joël Robuchon at the Mansion, which opened on Monday in the MGM Grand hotel here, represents a leap back into the rarefied realm of haute cuisine, from which he "retired" in 1996. During the tryouts preceding its official debut, the restaurant served the best food in Las Vegas, by a decisive margin, and some of the very best French food I have ever eaten on this continent.

This is no revolutionary Robuchon, like his Ateliers (including one here and, soon, in New York), where one eats at a counter and talks to the chefs. It is no casual, scaled-down, moderately priced Robuchon, like La Table de Joël Robuchon in the chic 16th Arrondissement, and its counterparts in Monte Carlo and Asia. This is full-scale, damn-the-torpedoes, three-stars-or-bust Robuchon, worldly, luxurious, costly.

Getting there is none of the fun. You walk through the crass clamor of hundreds of slot machines, past a Starbucks and other lesser diversions and into a bombastic stone doorway more suited to a central bank than a casino. But inside you are in Paris, in a subdued neo-Deco room lighted by a glamorous Swarovski crystal chandelier, furnished with handsome chairs in the fashion of Ruhlmann and graced by Lalique vases.

A small glass of lemon gelée flavored with vanilla and topped with an anisette-infused cream sets the tone straight away -- a complex, entirely original and appetite-rousing prelude to the many delights that lie ahead, and a vivid demonstration of the French master's familiar maxim that three tastes in any one dish are quite enough.

Mr. Robuchon's arrival signals another step in the evolution of Las Vegas as a culinary capital, and the onset of a struggle between two visions of its future. Will it specialize in a kind of ghost cuisine, conceived but seldom cooked by absentee chefs who made their names elsewhere, or will it nurture its own kitchen superstars?

Steve Wynn, whose gigantic new $2.7 billion casino opened in the summer of 2005, helped put Las Vegas on the world's gastronomic map in 1998 when he lured luminaries like Julian Serrano, Alessandro Strata and Sirio Maccioni to the Mirage and Bellagio, the Las Vegas resorts he then owned. Mr. Serrano and Mr. Strata moved here, and their food profited from their daily attention. But many of the chefs and restaurateurs who followed in their profitable wake did little more than phone in menus.

Mr. Wynn said that one evening in 2000 he ran into Jean-Georges Vongerichten at Prime, the Bellagio steakhouse that bears Mr. Vongerichten's imprimatur. Mr. Vongerichten, who is involved in restaurants in New York and around the world, told the casino boss that it was the first time he had cooked at Prime since it opened two years earlier.

That set Mr. Wynn to thinking, he told me, and he decided that "the only thing that matters is who's cooking dinner, not whose name appears on the door." As a result, most of the nine fine-dining restaurants at Wynn Las Vegas (among 22 food operations) are run by younger chefs, well known in the cities where they formerly cooked but not nationally celebrated. All have relocated to Las Vegas as a condition of employment, except Mr. Strata, who has moved over from the Mirage, and Daniel Boulud.

"A sense started spreading that something was fishy here," Mr. Wynn said. "If Steve Wynn paints a painting he doesn't get to sign it Picasso. So we're going down a different path. It's a bit of adventure, and I admit I'm not sure it'll work."

Gamal Aziz, who ran Bellagio's food and beverage operation and who considers Mr. Wynn his mentor, thinks not. Now the president of MGM Grand, the Egyptian-born Mr. Aziz is still reaching for stars. He persuaded Mr. Robuchon to set up shop here, where the chef is contractually required to spend just two weeks a quarter.

"I think it's an uphill battle to bring in these relatively unknown chefs and introduce them," Mr. Aziz said. "Most of our clients come to the desert for four or five days, not long enough to get used to new faces. They want to recognize names. I think we gain a competitive advantage by associating ourselves with the very best, and it will not be easy to top Joël Robuchon."

Well, Guy Savoy, another Paris heavyweight, holder of three Michelin stars, may come close if he wants to. His Las Vegas entry, on the second floor of the new Augustus Tower at Caesars Palace, a kitschfest even by Las Vegas standards, is set to open early in 2006 Mr. Savoy's son, Franck, has arrived to oversee it.

Some equally big names have decided not even to pretend to reproduce the food they serve at their home bases. At Wynn, Mr. Boulud runs a brasserie, not a replica of Daniel, his brilliant Manhattan establishment (although the executive chef, Philippe Rispoli, who grew up near Lyon, like Mr. Boulud, makes a rough-textured pâté de campagne, unctuous pork and goose rillettes and other dishes that would evoke cheers in New York).

Thomas Keller transplanted his bistro, Bouchon, not the French Laundry or Per Se, to the Venetian in Las Vegas. And the omnipresent Alain Ducasse, with two Michelin three-star restaurants, in Paris and Monte Carlo, eschews French classicism for a more populist approach at his local spot, Mix, perched on the 64th floor of a tower at Mandalay Bay. With sensational views across Sin City, it is much more endearing than its recently departed New York namesake. Thai beef salad and curried lobster cohabit happily on the menu with the best baba this side of the Atlantic, served with a choice of three premium rums. Hanging from the ceiling, thousands of shimmering Venetian glass baubles, said to have cost $500,000, remind you that you are in the world capital of wretched excess.

"Trying to replicate a Paris three-star on the 64th floor, maybe anywhere in Vegas, would have been a big mistake," said John Cunin, Mix's general manager.

Apa yang Harus Dimasak Akhir Pekan Ini

Sam Sifton punya saran menu untuk akhir pekan. Ada ribuan ide tentang apa yang harus dimasak menunggu Anda di New York Times Cooking.

    • Dalam resep slow cooker untuk udang di api penyucian, cabai merah pedas dan saus tomat mengembangkan rasa yang dalam selama berjam-jam.
    • Sebarkan beberapa chutney hijau yang dibeli di toko dalam ayam masala hijau yang cepat dan cakep ini. bisa baik untuk makan malam, dan beberapa muffin blueberry untuk sarapan.
    • Untuk hidangan penutup, semangka granita? Atau kue pon dengan stroberi maserasi dan krim kocok?
    • Dan untuk Memorial Day itu sendiri? Anda tahu kami punya banyak, banyak resep untuk itu.

    Obviously Mr. Aziz and Mr. Robuchon don't think so, and for now at least they seem to have brought it off. Mr. Robuchon took an almost obsessive interest in the design of the menu and the kitchen and put two seasoned Breton friends in day-to-day charge: Loïc Launay as general manager, and Claude Le Tohic, who worked at Mr. Robuchon's side during the glory days at Jamin in Paris, as executive chef.

    Mr. Le Tohic holds the title of Meilleur Ouvrier de France (Best Craftsman of France), a coveted distinction awarded by a jury of his peers, so no one doubts his credentials. Seven cooks and six front-of-the-house people also came from Robuchon operations in Paris and Tokyo. Only time will tell, however, how long they will stay and who will replace them when they go.

    Two set menus are offered at Joël Robuchon at the Mansion, 9 small courses plus coffee for $165, and 16 small courses plus coffee for $295. Many items are also served à la carte. The 750-entry wine list includes risibly expensive items, presumably for those who have hit several jackpots, such as 1978 Le Montrachet from the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti at $8,845 a bottle. But for mere mortals, 2002 Puligny-Montrachet from Dujac at a modest $108 should more than suffice. It did so for me.

    Though relaxed, service is in the grand French style, with main courses delivered on silver trays (or carved at table side, in the case of the lobster and turbot and delectable roasted guinea hen with foie gras). Breads, cheeses (all French, all ripe), digestifs and after-dinner treats roll to the table on handsome wooden carts. The lighting is subtle, the air-conditioning far less overpowering than the Las Vegas norm the tables are well spaced. Only 40 people can be seated in the square dining room, centered on a black fireplace with gas-fired flames, with room for a dozen more on a side terrace and 10 in a small private room.

    If the gelée amuse-bouche attested to Mr. Robuchon's unflagging creativity, a mille-feuille consisting of two triangular layer cakes of fresh king crab, Fuji apple, watercress and bibb lettuce with perfectly fitted tomato lids bespoke his artistry. They rested on a red disk formed by a coulis of tomato and Périgord verjus (unfermented juice of unripe grapes), delightful in its balance of acid and fruitiness, with minuscule green dots of parsley-infused mayonnaise around its circumference. So precisely was all this applied, each dish reportedly requiring 20 minutes to complete, that I thought for a second that it was part of the decoration of the plate. Sihir.

    I could not resist trying langoustines, a Robuchon specialty, which are not often seen in the United States. Pulled into tight circles, enveloped in ephemeral ravioli cases with more than a few slivers of truffle, and cooked for only a few instants, these were meltingly sweet and ultratender. A hillock of barely steamed baby Savoy cabbage shared the plate, along with a slick of glossy veal reduction. Nothing else.

    The langoustines had been flown across the Atlantic, of course, but the milk-fed veal was all-American, from the highly regarded Four Story Hill Farm in Pennsylvania. Listed on the menu as a veal chop, it was in fact two rectangles, less than half an inch thick, judiciously cooked to a uniform pink from edge to edge and moistened with deeply flavored pan juices. This time the accompanying act was a nest of taglierini made from carrots, zucchini and broccolini and lightly sauced with pesto. Somebody somewhere may do a more succulent veal dish -- there are lots of restaurants in this world -- but if so I have never sampled it.

    Everything I ate was thought-out and free of frivolous gestures. Each combined delicacy with a certain muscularity of taste in a most unusual equilibrium. And each left my palate fresh as the dawn.

    THINGS have gotten off to a bumpy start at Wynn. Its nightclubs are already being revamped, its computer system has been plagued by bugs and one of its regional chefs, Jimmy Sneed, formerly at the Frog and the Redneck in Richmond, Va., left before the resort even opened, after personality clashes and a dispute over what style of food he should cook.

    Some of the other restaurants still seem a little ragged, including Okada, where the gifted Takashi Yagahashi cooks European-influenced Japanese food.

    The look of the place is a bit of a letdown as well. Whereas Bellagio's lyrically swaying fountains evoke Busby Berkeley musicals, Wynn's ersatz Yosemite, waterfalls and all, comes straight out of B-movies.

    But Wynn has had its triumphs as well, including Alex, the new domain of Mr. Strata and his rich, layered Franco-Italian food, which is one of the town's handful of truly successful haute cuisine restaurants. Its two steakhouses are booming, too Las Vegas has always loved beef.

    From my viewpoint, Paul Bartolotta's Ristorante di Mare is as thrilling as it is unexpected: an Italian seafood trattoria smack in the middle of the American desert. Although forewarned, I leapt with surprise when he wheeled out a trolley banked with bright-eyed orata, branzino, triglia (red mullet), spigola and other fish -- even ugly, fiery red scorfano, the rascasse so vital to bouillabaisse -- from Venice, Sicily, Liguria and other maritime parts of Italy, which come directly from a Milanese broker.

    Milwaukee-born, trained in top kitchens in New York, France and Italy, Mr. Bartolotta, 44, made Spiaggia in Chicago the best Italian restaurant between the coasts. When they met, Mr. Wynn said, "I wanted a normal Italian menu -- you know, veal piccata -- but he insisted on doing something different and wore me down."

    So seafood it is: steamed mussels with cannellini beans, tender octopus salad, linguine with clams and tomatoes, charcoal grilled lobster or langoustines and those beautiful fish, simply poached or roasted whole with olive oil and perhaps a touch of grapefruit for balance, dressed with herbs and some simple condiment like salsa salmoriglio (olive oil, lemon, garlic and oregano) -- real seaside stuff -- with a few token meat dishes like rabbit, chicken and rack of lamb. No veal piccata.

    "I'm shooting for extreme simplicity and explosive flavor," Mr. Bartolotta said, and he is hitting those targets.

    Another veteran of the Chicago restaurant wars, Taiwan-born Richard Chen, who won acclaim at the Peninsula Hotel's Shanghai Terrace in Chicago, also seems to have hit his stride in Las Vegas. He cooks Western-inflected Chinese food at Wing Lei at Wynn, including a fabulous Peking duck salad that owes a debt to a similar dish at Hakkasan in London, a lobster spring roll, thinly sliced abalone with a spicy green papaya salad and a memorable Dungeness crab slow-cooked with ginger, scallions and garlic in a clay pot.

    All fine eating -- and a joy to look at as well, as is the miniature garden that lies just beyond a wall-size window, with a pair of 100-year old pomegranate trees and a big black Fernando Botero sculpture.

    Still, the question remains: as important as dining has become to Las Vegas, where gambling now accounts for only 40 percent of revenues, can a rootless place with no indigenous gastronomic traditions and no local raw materials (except for the odd blood orange and sprig of rosemary) ever be a great restaurant town, as opposed to a resort town with good restaurants -- "a Disneyland for foodies," as the restaurant consultant Clark Wolf calls it?

    "I doubt that you will ever have a true food culture here, in the sense that Lyon and Venice and San Francisco have food cultures," commented Elizabeth Blau, executive vice president for restaurant development at Wynn Resorts, who is considered one of the savviest food people in the city. "Nothing is local."

    I asked Mr. Aziz whether Las Vegas is yet a great restaurant city.

    "No, not yet," he replied, "but we've made some quantum leaps. We've built a strong foundation, and eventually we'll get there. This is a large, prosperous region now. We have the economic means to support not only great restaurants in the casinos, but also the bistros and other places that are popping up in the neighborhoods."


    Tonton videonya: Peggys Restaurant Review of: Giannis Aruba (Desember 2021).